The Challenger 31109 arm restraint gear is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. This is the genuine Challenger part — same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger arm restraint gear from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: 31109
• Brand: Challenger
• Type: Genuine OEM arm restraint gear
• Fits: CL10, CL10A, CL10DPC, CL10V3, CL12, CL12A, CL16, CL20

Rust is what usually kills a lock before wear does. The pivot seizes, the return spring corrodes and weakens, and the pawl stops dropping crisply into the ladder. On a lift that lives in a damp shop or an unheated garage, the locks are often the first safety part to go — not from cycles, but from a stiff, gummed-up mechanism that no longer moves the way it has to.

A safety latch is the positive stop that keeps a raised component — an arm, a carriage, a locking device — from dropping if something upstream lets go. It's designed to do nothing at all until the moment it's needed, which is exactly why it gets ignored. A latch that's rusted, bent, or missing its spring is a latch that won't be there in the one instant it matters.

What lifts this arm restraint gear fits

This arm restraint gear fits the lift models below. Click a model to open its visual parts breakdown — the exploded drawing with every part numbered, so you can confirm this is the right part for your exact lift before you order.

• CL10 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10A — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10DPC — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10V3 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL12 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL12A — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL16 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL20 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift

Replacing your arm restraint gear

A sticky or worn pawl replacement means freeing or renewing the pawl, its pivot, and its return spring so it drops into the ladder without hesitation. Clean the mechanism, install the new parts, and test that the pawl snaps home and retracts fully on release. Because a lazy pawl is the difference between a lift that catches and one that doesn't, walk through the complete guide before you trust it. Full step-by-step: how to replace lift arm restraint gears.

Find the right part for your lift

The surest way to get the right part is to work from your lift's own breakdown. open our Challenger parts lookup, choose your model, and every part is mapped on the drawing with its number and price. If you cannot find the model plate, our guide to finding your model number explains where each lift type hides it, and our phone line is open if you want a hand.

Signs the locking system needs attention

Raise the lift slowly and listen. The pawls at every column should click into the ladder crisply and, on a level lift, at the same time. A pawl that clicks late, skips a tooth, or doesn't click at all is either sticking or worn. Uneven clicks across columns point to a lazy pawl, a stretched cable, or a lift that isn't level — track it down before you trust the locks.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

Order lock parts as a group. Even, synchronized engagement depends on matched hardware on both columns, so the latch, pawl, spring, and release cable are best done together. It is cheaper in one pass, and we keep the right versions for your production run — one call gets the whole kit.

Safety notes

Do not run a lift whose locks do not click crisply and together. Worn pawls and stretched release cables let a carriage settle onto a tooth that is not fully seated — which is exactly how a lift fails under load. Adjust and replace lock parts as a set, and test engagement on both columns before the lift carries weight.

Before you order

A quick check before ordering: model, serial, and whether one or both columns need work. Lock designs vary by year, and matched hardware on both sides is what keeps engagement even. If your release cable is due too, add it now rather than reopening the column later.

Not sure this fits? Here's how to check

Pull the number off your lift's model plate first — model and serial both. Manufacturers run mid-cycle revisions that keep the model name but change hardware, so two lifts with the same name on the column can take different parts. The serial is what removes the guesswork.

Second check: compare the old part against this listing before you order. Length, mounting pattern, and thread sizes tell most of the story. If anything doesn't line up, or if the old part is too worn or broken to measure, call us with photos — we work on these lifts every week and can usually confirm fit from a picture and the lift's serial faster than you can dig through a parts diagram.

Why buy your Challenger arm restraint gear from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the 31109 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.