The Challenger 39101-024 hydraulic hose is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. This is the genuine Challenger part — same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger hydraulic hose from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: 39101-024
• Brand: Challenger
• Type: Genuine OEM hydraulic hose
• Fits: 4115, CL10, CL10A, CL10DPC, CL10V3

Dirty or wrong fluid quietly wrecks hydraulic parts. Milky oil means water got in and the pump is cavitating; dark, gritty oil means the system is grinding itself and packing the filter with metal. Mixing ISO-32 and ATF, or topping off with whatever's on the shelf, changes the viscosity the pump was built for. Half the "bad cylinder" calls in a shop start as fluid that should have been changed years ago.

The cylinder is where hydraulic pressure becomes lift. Fluid pushed behind the piston drives the rod out, the rod raises the carriage or pulls the cables, and a check valve holds it up there until the lowering valve lets it back down. It's a simple, rugged part — until the rod seal wears or the barrel scores, at which point it can't hold pressure and the lift won't stay up.

What lifts this hydraulic hose fits

This hydraulic hose fits the lift models below. Click a model to open its visual parts breakdown — the exploded drawing with every part numbered, so you can confirm this is the right part for your exact lift before you order.

• 4115 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10A — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10DPC — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10V3 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift

Related parts for this lift

The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit.

• Challenger 39101-036 Hose Assembly Extension (3'Lg)
• Challenger 39101-048 Hose Assembly-2' Extension (4'Lg)
• Challenger 39101-072 Hose Assembly-3' Extension (6'Lg)

Replacing your hydraulic hose

Replacing a power unit means confirming the voltage matches, killing power at the breaker, bleeding the hydraulic pressure, then transferring the lines and wiring to the new unit and refilling with the correct fluid. Getting the voltage and the fluid right is what separates a working swap from a paperweight. The complete procedure covers each step in order. Full step-by-step: how to replace a car lift hydraulic hose.

Find the right part for your lift

The surest way to get the right part is to work from your lift's own breakdown. open our Challenger parts lookup, choose your model, and every part is mapped on the drawing with its number and price. If you cannot find the model plate, our guide to finding your model number explains where each lift type hides it, and our phone line is open if you want a hand.

Signs of a hydraulic problem

Wipe the cylinder rod and body clean, cycle the lift, and look again. A film of oil creeping down from the rod seal means the seal is weeping; a wet fitting means an o-ring or washer is done. Then raise the lift, mark the height, and leave it overnight — if it has drifted down by morning, the cylinder, check valve, or lowering valve is bleeding internally.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

The parts near a hydraulic failure are usually next in line — seals that are hardening, a hose that is cracking, fittings that seep. Do them together while the system is open and bled. We will match the seal kit, hose, and oil to your lift so you are not chasing the same leak in a month.

Hydraulic fluid

When you refill, use the right oil: ISO-32 hydraulic fluid on most lifts, or Dexron ATF on some older designs — never a blend of the two. Your installation manual lists the correct capacity for your specific lift, so fill to that spec and re-check the level after you have cycled and bled the system.

Safety notes

A hydraulic lift that drops or drifts almost always traces to air or a failed seal, both of which are preventable. Relieve pressure before opening anything, bleed until the stream runs solid, and never sign off a repair with the lift drifting even slightly at full height. Locks stay engaged while you work.

Before you order

Before ordering, confirm your lift's model and serial and, for a cylinder or hose, the exact length or fitting configuration — these change across production runs. If you only need to stop a leak, a seal kit may be the smarter buy than a whole cylinder; call and we will help you decide before you spend.

Not sure this fits? Here's how to check

Pull the number off your lift's model plate first — model and serial both. Manufacturers run mid-cycle revisions that keep the model name but change hardware, so two lifts with the same name on the column can take different parts. The serial is what removes the guesswork.

Second check: compare the old part against this listing before you order. Length, mounting pattern, and thread sizes tell most of the story. If anything doesn't line up, or if the old part is too worn or broken to measure, call us with photos — we work on these lifts every week and can usually confirm fit from a picture and the lift's serial faster than you can dig through a parts diagram.

Why buy your Challenger hydraulic hose from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the 39101-024 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.