The Challenger A2003-2 lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. This is the genuine Challenger part — same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: A2003-2
• Brand: Challenger
• Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable
• Fits: CL10, CL10DPC, CL10V3

Equalizer cables are the reason a two-post lift with one cylinder still raises level. One column gets the hydraulic push; the other follows only because the cables physically tie the carriages together over the sheaves. Get the cables, sheaves, and lock timing working as one system and the lift lands both locks at the same click. Let any one of them go and the lift starts arriving at the top crooked.

Sheaves are the grooved pulleys the cable turns on — usually two per column on a two-post, more on a four-post with its runway and crossbeam pulleys. Each one rides a pin on a bushing and has to spin true so the cable tracks in the groove. When the groove wears wide or the bushing pushes out the side, the cable no longer sits where it should and starts sawing itself apart on every cycle.

What lifts this lifting cable fits

This lifting cable fits the lift models below. Click a model to open its visual parts breakdown — the exploded drawing with every part numbered, so you can confirm this is the right part for your exact lift before you order.

• CL10 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10DPC — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10V3 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift

Related parts for this lift

The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit.

• Challenger A2003-0 Synchronizer Cable Pack Cl10
• Challenger A2003-3 Synchronizer Cable Pack Cl10-3
• Challenger A2003-Q10EH2 Synchronizer Cable Pack Q10Eh2

Replacing your lifting cable

Equalizer-cable work is as much adjustment as it is replacement — the cables only do their job when they're tensioned so both carriages rise and land together. Confirm the new cable length against the old, route it without twists, and dial in the adjusting nuts until the locks click in unison. Getting that equalization right is the whole point, and the complete walkthrough covers how to chase it down. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables.

Find the right part for your lift

The surest way to get the right part is to work from your lift's own breakdown. open our Challenger parts lookup, choose your model, and every part is mapped on the drawing with its number and price. If you cannot find the model plate, our guide to finding your model number explains where each lift type hides it, and our phone line is open if you want a hand.

Signs a cable or sheave is worn out

Run a rag slowly along the full length of each cable — a snag means a broken strand poking up, and even one broken strand condemns the cable. Look for cording (the outer wires unwinding), kinks, flat spots, and rust that has crept between the strands. On the sheaves, check for a groove worn oversize, cracks, and any wobble you can feel by hand. Any of those, and the part is done.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

Smart move while the columns are open: replace the matched cables and inspect every sheave, swapping any that are grooved or chipped. Cables and sheaves are a system, and doing them together keeps the lift equalized and running true. We will build the complete set for your model so you finish the job in one pass.

Safety notes

Do not gamble on a tension part. If a cable shows broken strands, cording, or heavy rust, or a sheave has an oversized or chipped groove, the lift comes out of service until it is fixed. Replace in pairs, tension evenly, and cycle the lift several times with no vehicle on it to confirm the set is riding true.

Before you order

Before you order, measure the old cable end to end and count how many you need — most lifts use a matched set, and replacing one without the others just leaves you doing the job again. Have your lift's model and serial handy so we can confirm length and end fittings for your exact production run.

Not sure this fits? Here's how to check

Pull the number off your lift's model plate first — model and serial both. Manufacturers run mid-cycle revisions that keep the model name but change hardware, so two lifts with the same name on the column can take different parts. The serial is what removes the guesswork.

Second check: compare the old part against this listing before you order. Length, mounting pattern, and thread sizes tell most of the story. If anything doesn't line up, or if the old part is too worn or broken to measure, call us with photos — we work on these lifts every week and can usually confirm fit from a picture and the lift's serial faster than you can dig through a parts diagram.

Why buy your Challenger lifting cable from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the A2003-2 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.