The Challenger A2119 lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. This is the genuine Challenger part — same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: A2119
• Brand: Challenger
• Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable
• Fits: CL10, CL10DPC, CL10V3

A cable is only as good as the sheave it rides. The two parts wear as a system: a grooved or wobbling sheave chews the cable, and a corded cable grinds a fresh sheave. That's why techs who pull a lift apart for one usually replace both, along with the small lock-release cable that trips the pawls. Swapping a cable onto worn sheaves just starts the failure clock over again.

Cable failure almost never happens all at once. A strand pops here, a groove wears oversize there, a sheave bushing walks out the side, and the cable starts cording where it turns. Left alone, the frayed section keeps losing strands until the day it lets go — usually with weight on the lift. That is the whole reason these tension parts get inspected and swapped on a schedule instead of run to failure.

What lifts this lifting cable fits

This lifting cable fits the lift models below. Click a model to open its visual parts breakdown — the exploded drawing with every part numbered, so you can confirm this is the right part for your exact lift before you order.

• CL10 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10DPC — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10V3 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift

Replacing your lifting cable

Cable and sheave replacement usually happen together, since a worn sheave will chew a fresh cable and a bad cable scores a new sheave. Plan on inspecting and, if needed, replacing both while the lift is open, then equalizing the cables so the locks land together. It's methodical work with a clear right way to do it, laid out in full in the step-by-step guide. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables.

Find the right part for your lift

The surest way to get the right part is to work from your lift's own breakdown. open our Challenger parts lookup, choose your model, and every part is mapped on the drawing with its number and price. If you cannot find the model plate, our guide to finding your model number explains where each lift type hides it, and our phone line is open if you want a hand.

Signs a cable or sheave is worn out

Kinks are a hard stop. A cable that has ever been kinked has permanently damaged strands at the bend, even if it looks fine now, and it will fail there. Look for kinks, kinks that were straightened back out (you'll see a slight flat), and any spot where the cable rubbed a bracket and wore a shiny flat. Worn flats and kinks both condemn the cable.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

Order the companions now, not later. A cable job is the right time to refresh sheaves, pins, and the lock-release cable, since the hard part — getting into the columns — is already done. Give us your lift's model and serial and we will put together the full wear kit so nothing is left half-finished.

Safety notes

A worn cable gives warning — a strand here, some cording there — and a shop that ignores those warnings is the one that has a bad day. Inspect at every service, replace before the interval if you see damage, and never trust a slack or kinked cable back into service. Set the lift on its locks before touching anything.

Before you order

Ordering tip: cables come in specific lengths and end styles per lift and height variant, so read the numbers off your data plate before you buy. If you are replacing a set, order the set — and if a sheave is grooved, add it now while the lift is open rather than making a second trip.

Check your lift's serial before ordering

The most common reason a lift part comes back is not a defect — it is a revision mismatch. Manufacturers change sub-parts between production runs while keeping the same lift model name, so "it fits my lift model" is not always enough. The model plate carries the serial number that pins your lift to a specific run, and that is the number that settles which version of this part belongs on your lift.

Can't find the plate? Measure the old part — overall length, bolt-hole spacing, thread size on anything threaded — and photograph it from a couple of angles. Send that with your lift's brand and rough age and we will match it against the parts breakdowns we service from every week.

Why buy your Challenger lifting cable from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the A2119 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.