The Challenger A2135-3 lock release cable is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. This is the genuine Challenger part — same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lock release cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: A2135-3
• Brand: Challenger
• Type: Genuine OEM lock release cable
• Fits: CL10, CL10DPC, CL10V3

The cables, sheaves, and lock-release parts on a lift make up the tension path — the mechanical chain that ties both carriages together and keeps them rising at the same rate off a single cylinder. Steel cable runs over grooved sheaves, and small release cables trip the safety pawls so the lift can come down. Every one of these parts lives under constant load whenever a vehicle is in the air, which is exactly why they wear.

Equalizer cables are the reason a two-post lift with one cylinder still raises level. One column gets the hydraulic push; the other follows only because the cables physically tie the carriages together over the sheaves. Get the cables, sheaves, and lock timing working as one system and the lift lands both locks at the same click. Let any one of them go and the lift starts arriving at the top crooked.

What lifts this lock release cable fits

This lock release cable fits the lift models below. Click a model to open its visual parts breakdown — the exploded drawing with every part numbered, so you can confirm this is the right part for your exact lift before you order.

• CL10 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10DPC — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10V3 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift

Related parts for this lift

The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit.

• Challenger A2135-0 Lock Release Cable Assembly Cl10
• Challenger A2135-2 Lock Release Cable Assembly Cl10-2
• Challenger A2135-Q10EH2 Lock Release Cable Assembly Q10Eh2

Replacing your lock release cable

Equalizer-cable work is as much adjustment as it is replacement — the cables only do their job when they're tensioned so both carriages rise and land together. Confirm the new cable length against the old, route it without twists, and dial in the adjusting nuts until the locks click in unison. Getting that equalization right is the whole point, and the complete walkthrough covers how to chase it down. Full step-by-step: how to replace a lift lock release cable.

Find the right part for your lift

Not certain this is the exact part your lift needs? Start with your lift's model and serial off the data plate, then open our Challenger parts lookup to see the visual parts breakdown for your model — the exploded drawing with every part numbered and priced. If your plate is missing or unreadable, our guide to finding your model number walks through where to find it, or send us a photo and we will identify the lift for you.

Signs a cable or sheave is worn out

Corrosion hides the worst damage. A cable can look intact under surface rust while the strands underneath are pitted and losing strength. Flex it and watch for stiff spots or rust dust falling out — both mean the steel is compromised. Check the sheave bushings too: a copper-colored bushing pushed out the side of a sheave means it's worn and the cable is no longer tracking straight.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

Smart move while the columns are open: replace the matched cables and inspect every sheave, swapping any that are grooved or chipped. Cables and sheaves are a system, and doing them together keeps the lift equalized and running true. We will build the complete set for your model so you finish the job in one pass.

Safety notes

Do not gamble on a tension part. If a cable shows broken strands, cording, or heavy rust, or a sheave has an oversized or chipped groove, the lift comes out of service until it is fixed. Replace in pairs, tension evenly, and cycle the lift several times with no vehicle on it to confirm the set is riding true.

Before you order

Before you order, measure the old cable end to end and count how many you need — most lifts use a matched set, and replacing one without the others just leaves you doing the job again. Have your lift's model and serial handy so we can confirm length and end fittings for your exact production run.

Confirm this is the right part before you order

Lift manufacturers revise parts mid-production without changing the model name, so the same lift bought two years apart can take two different revisions of the same component. Before you order, find the model plate on the lift — on most 2-post lifts it rides on one of the columns at eye level, on 4-post lifts it is usually on a column or the power-unit side runway — and note the full model number and serial. The serial dates the lift to a production run, and that is what decides which revision fits.

If the plate is painted over or missing, take a photo of the part you are replacing next to a tape measure and send it to us. Between the dimensions, the mounting pattern, and what lift it came off of, we can almost always identify the exact part before you spend money on the wrong one.

Why buy your Challenger lock release cable from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the A2135-3 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.