The Challenger AD-9367 is the direct-replacement power unit for the Challenger lift it came off of — the genuine part, same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger power unit from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.
Specifications
- Part number: AD-9367
- Brand: Challenger
- Type: Genuine OEM power unit
- Fits: 4P14EFX and 4P14XFX, CL10, CL10A, CL10V3, VLE10
Dirty or wrong fluid quietly wrecks hydraulic parts. Milky oil means water got in and the pump is cavitating; dark, gritty oil means the system is grinding itself and packing the filter with metal. Mixing ISO-32 and ATF, or topping off with whatever's on the shelf, changes the viscosity the pump was built for. Half the "bad cylinder" calls in a shop start as fluid that should have been changed years ago.
The cylinder is where hydraulic pressure becomes lift. Fluid pushed behind the piston drives the rod out, the rod raises the carriage or pulls the cables, and a check valve holds it up there until the lowering valve lets it back down. It's a simple, rugged part — until the rod seal wears or the barrel scores, at which point it can't hold pressure and the lift won't stay up.
What lifts this power unit fits
This power unit fits the lift models below. Click a model to open its visual parts breakdown — the exploded drawing with every part numbered, so you can confirm this is the right part for your exact lift before you order.
- 4P14EFX — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
- CL10 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
- CL10A — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
- CL10V3 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
- VLE10 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
Related parts for this lift
The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit.
Replacing your power unit
Rebuilding a cylinder with a seal kit is bench work: tear it down, lay the parts out in order, confirm the bore and rod aren't scored, then reassemble with the new seals lubricated and bench-test for leaks before it goes back in. The order of the seals and the condition of the barrel make or break the job. Walk through the complete guide before you crack the end cap. Full step-by-step: how to replace a car lift power unit.
Find the right part for your lift
The surest way to get the right part is to work from your lift's own breakdown. open our Challenger parts lookup, choose your model, and every part is mapped on the drawing with its number and price. If you cannot find the model plate, our guide to finding your model number explains where each lift type hides it, and our phone line is open if you want a hand.
Signs of a hydraulic problem
Wipe the cylinder rod and body clean, cycle the lift, and look again. A film of oil creeping down from the rod seal means the seal is weeping; a wet fitting means an o-ring or washer is done. Then raise the lift, mark the height, and leave it overnight — if it has drifted down by morning, the cylinder, check valve, or lowering valve is bleeding internally.
Parts commonly replaced at the same time
While the system is open, take care of the companions — the seal kit, the o-rings, the feed hose, and the oil you will need to refill and bleed. It is cheaper and cleaner than reopening the system for the piece you skipped. We keep the right specs for your lift and can kit it for you.
Hydraulic fluid
When you refill, use the right oil: ISO-32 hydraulic fluid on most lifts, or Dexron ATF on some older designs — never a blend of the two. Your installation manual lists the correct capacity for your specific lift, so fill to that spec and re-check the level after you have cycled and bled the system.
Safety notes
Treat the hydraulic system as pressurized until you have relieved it. Bleed in the correct order, keep the reservoir topped so the pump never sucks air, and confirm there is zero drift at full height before returning the lift to service. A cylinder or hose that weeps today is a failure waiting for the worst moment.
Before you order
Hydraulic components are specific to the lift's pressure and plumbing, so order by model and serial, not by eye. For a leaking cylinder, decide between a seal kit and a full replacement first — we can help — and plan on topping off and bleeding the system when the new part goes in.
Not sure this fits? Here's how to check
Pull the number off your lift's model plate first — model and serial both. Manufacturers run mid-cycle revisions that keep the model name but change hardware, so two lifts with the same name on the column can take different parts. The serial is what removes the guesswork.
Second check: compare the old part against this listing before you order. Length, mounting pattern, and thread sizes tell most of the story. If anything doesn't line up, or if the old part is too worn or broken to measure, call us with photos — we work on these lifts every week and can usually confirm fit from a picture and the lift's serial faster than you can dig through a parts diagram.
Why buy your Challenger power unit from Auto Lift Services
We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the AD-9367 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.
Challenger AD-9367 3Ph Power Unit(Cl10 W/ram Cyl
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