The Challenger B1140 lock pawl is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. This is the genuine Challenger part — same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lock pawl from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: B1140
• Brand: Challenger
• Type: Genuine OEM lock pawl
• Fits: CL10, CL10A, CL10DPC, CL10V3, LE12, LE12-3S, VLE10

Locks fail two ways, and both are dangerous. The pawl can stick — gummed with grease and grit, or a weak return spring — so it doesn't drop into the ladder when it should. Or the ladder teeth and pawl nose wear rounded, so the pawl won't hold and can skip under load. A lock that doesn't engage, or engages and won't hold, defeats the one part standing between a raised vehicle and the floor.

The lock ladder is the toothed steel rail bolted inside each column that the pawl climbs and catches on. Its job is simple and absolute: give the pawl a square, full-depth tooth to rest the load on at every height. When the teeth round over, chip, or the ladder loosens on its mounts, the pawl no longer has a solid shelf to sit on — and a pawl resting on a half-worn tooth is a lift resting on nothing you'd want to trust.

What lifts this lock pawl fits

This lock pawl fits the lift models below. Click a model to open its visual parts breakdown — the exploded drawing with every part numbered, so you can confirm this is the right part for your exact lift before you order.

• CL10 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10A — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10DPC — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• CL10V3 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• LE12 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• LE12-3S — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift
• VLE10 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift

Replacing your lock pawl

Replacing a lock ladder or pawl is straightforward mechanical work, but it's the one repair where getting it exactly right isn't optional — the new parts have to let the pawl seat fully into a square tooth and spring home crisply every time. Set it up, then cycle the lift and confirm every lock engages and releases cleanly. Since the locks are what hold a vehicle overhead, the full procedure is worth following start to finish. Full step-by-step: how to replace a lift lock ladder.

Find the right part for your lift

If you are not sure this part matches your setup, the fastest check is the visual breakdown: open our Challenger parts lookup, pick your model, and match your part against the drawing where every item is numbered. Can't read the model plate? our guide to finding your model number shows exactly where it lives on each lift type, and we are a phone call away if you would rather have us confirm it.

Signs the locking system needs attention

Check the return springs and pivots. A stretched, rusted, or broken spring won't snap the pawl home; a corroded pivot binds it. Look for surface rust locking the mechanism, missing or damaged springs, and pins worn loose in their bores. The pawl only protects the lift if it drops fast and sits deep — anything slowing that motion is a defect, not a quirk.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

While you are in the locking system, handle the companions: the pawl, its spring, the latch, and the release cable that operates them. Replacing one worn piece and leaving the rest just means uneven locking and another visit. Give us your lift's model and we will build the matched set for both sides.

Safety notes

A lift is only as safe as its locks, and locks are mechanical parts that wear — rounded teeth, tired springs, cables out of adjustment. Replace them at the first sign of uneven or hesitant engagement, verify both sides catch and release in sync, and never park a load on locks you have not tested.

Before you order

Do the lock job once and completely: confirm model and serial, order latch, pawl, spring, and release cable together, and do both columns if either is worn. Even, synchronized locking depends on matched hardware. Call and we will confirm the right kit for your lift before it ships.

Check your lift's serial before ordering

The most common reason a lift part comes back is not a defect — it is a revision mismatch. Manufacturers change sub-parts between production runs while keeping the same lift model name, so "it fits my lift model" is not always enough. The model plate carries the serial number that pins your lift to a specific run, and that is the number that settles which version of this part belongs on your lift.

Can't find the plate? Measure the old part — overall length, bolt-hole spacing, thread size on anything threaded — and photograph it from a couple of angles. Send that with your lift's brand and rough age and we will match it against the parts breakdowns we service from every week.

Why buy your Challenger lock pawl from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the B1140 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.