The Challenger JSJ5-04-00CH lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. Cross-referenced as ALS-7234-412 x2, it is the genuine Challenger part — same part number, same fit, and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: ALS-7234-412 x2
• Brand: Challenger
• Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable

Sheaves are the grooved pulleys the cable turns on — usually two per column on a two-post, more on a four-post with its runway and crossbeam pulleys. Each one rides a pin on a bushing and has to spin true so the cable tracks in the groove. When the groove wears wide or the bushing pushes out the side, the cable no longer sits where it should and starts sawing itself apart on every cycle.

There is no cheaper insurance on a lift than fresh cable and sound sheaves. A cable set costs a fraction of a day's labor; a dropped vehicle costs the car, the downtime, and possibly somebody standing next to it. These parts hold real weight in the air. The moment a cable shows broken strands or a sheave won't turn true, the lift comes out of service until it's fixed — no exceptions worth making.

Related parts for this lift

The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit.

• Cable, Lifting RF for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322133 103202133
• Cable, Lifting LR for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322138 103202138
• Cable, Eq. CL12-0 - Challenger - 12703-0x
• Cable, Eq. CL12-0 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-0
• Cable, Eq. CL12-1 - Challenger - 12703-1x
• Cable, Eq. CL12-1 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-1

Replacing your lifting cable

Equalizer-cable work is as much adjustment as it is replacement — the cables only do their job when they're tensioned so both carriages rise and land together. Confirm the new cable length against the old, route it without twists, and dial in the adjusting nuts until the locks click in unison. Getting that equalization right is the whole point, and the complete walkthrough covers how to chase it down. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables.

Find the right part for your lift

If you are not sure this part matches your setup, the fastest check is the visual breakdown: open our Challenger parts lookup, pick your model, and match your part against the drawing where every item is numbered. Can't read the model plate? our guide to finding your model number shows exactly where it lives on each lift type, and we are a phone call away if you would rather have us confirm it.

Signs a cable or sheave is worn out

Compare side to side. On a two-post, both cables should look and feel alike; a marked difference — one furrier, one rustier, one with more broken wires — flags the one that's failing. Also check that each cable still sits fully in every sheave groove and hasn't jumped a pulley. A cable riding the edge of a groove instead of the bottom wears fast and can pop off.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

Smart move while the columns are open: replace the matched cables and inspect every sheave, swapping any that are grooved or chipped. Cables and sheaves are a system, and doing them together keeps the lift equalized and running true. We will build the complete set for your model so you finish the job in one pass.

Safety notes

Do not gamble on a tension part. If a cable shows broken strands, cording, or heavy rust, or a sheave has an oversized or chipped groove, the lift comes out of service until it is fixed. Replace in pairs, tension evenly, and cycle the lift several times with no vehicle on it to confirm the set is riding true.

Before you order

Before you order, measure the old cable end to end and count how many you need — most lifts use a matched set, and replacing one without the others just leaves you doing the job again. Have your lift's model and serial handy so we can confirm length and end fittings for your exact production run.

Confirm this is the right part before you order

Lift manufacturers revise parts mid-production without changing the model name, so the same lift bought two years apart can take two different revisions of the same component. Before you order, find the model plate on the lift — on most 2-post lifts it rides on one of the columns at eye level, on 4-post lifts it is usually on a column or the power-unit side runway — and note the full model number and serial. The serial dates the lift to a production run, and that is what decides which revision fits.

If the plate is painted over or missing, take a photo of the part you are replacing next to a tape measure and send it to us. Between the dimensions, the mounting pattern, and what lift it came off of, we can almost always identify the exact part before you spend money on the wrong one.

Why buy your Challenger lifting cable from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the ALS-7234-412 x2 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.