The Challenger JSJ5-03-07CH lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. Cross-referenced as ALS-7234-429 x2, it is the genuine Challenger part — same part number, same fit, and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: ALS-7234-429 x2
• Brand: Challenger
• Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable

A cable is only as good as the sheave it rides. The two parts wear as a system: a grooved or wobbling sheave chews the cable, and a corded cable grinds a fresh sheave. That's why techs who pull a lift apart for one usually replace both, along with the small lock-release cable that trips the pawls. Swapping a cable onto worn sheaves just starts the failure clock over again.

Cable failure almost never happens all at once. A strand pops here, a groove wears oversize there, a sheave bushing walks out the side, and the cable starts cording where it turns. Left alone, the frayed section keeps losing strands until the day it lets go — usually with weight on the lift. That is the whole reason these tension parts get inspected and swapped on a schedule instead of run to failure.

Related parts for this lift

The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit.

• Cable, Lifting RF for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322133 103202133
• Cable, Lifting LR for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322138 103202138
• Cable, Eq. CL12-0 - Challenger - 12703-0x
• Cable, Eq. CL12-0 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-0
• Cable, Eq. CL12-1 - Challenger - 12703-1x
• Cable, Eq. CL12-1 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-1

Replacing your lifting cable

Replacing a lift cable is straightforward hand-tool work, but the details decide whether the lift lands level afterward — routing each cable correctly over its sheaves, connecting the hard-to-reach end first, and setting the adjusting nuts so every lock clicks together. Before you cut the old cable off, lay the new one alongside it to confirm the length is right. Because a mis-routed or unequal set makes the lift arrive crooked, the full procedure is worth following start to finish. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables.

Find the right part for your lift

The surest way to get the right part is to work from your lift's own breakdown. open our Challenger parts lookup, choose your model, and every part is mapped on the drawing with its number and price. If you cannot find the model plate, our guide to finding your model number explains where each lift type hides it, and our phone line is open if you want a hand.

Signs a cable or sheave is worn out

Kinks are a hard stop. A cable that has ever been kinked has permanently damaged strands at the bend, even if it looks fine now, and it will fail there. Look for kinks, kinks that were straightened back out (you'll see a slight flat), and any spot where the cable rubbed a bracket and wore a shiny flat. Worn flats and kinks both condemn the cable.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

Rarely is a tension part a solo job. A worn cable often means the sheaves it rides are grooved, and a failed sheave chews cables — so plan on doing them together. We can pull the matched cable set plus sheaves and pins for your exact lift so nothing gets missed and you are not back in there next month.

Safety notes

The whole reason a lift has redundant locks is that cables and sheaves are wear items that will eventually fail — your job is to replace them before they get there. Do not run a lift on a cable with broken strands or a sheave with a chipped flange, and never work under a load resting on tension parts you do not trust. Drop it to the locks first.

Before you order

Get it right the first time: note your lift's model and serial, count the cables in the set, and check the sheaves while you are at it. Ordering matched tension parts together saves a return and a repeat teardown. If you are unsure which length your lift takes, send a photo of the plate.

Check your lift's serial before ordering

The most common reason a lift part comes back is not a defect — it is a revision mismatch. Manufacturers change sub-parts between production runs while keeping the same lift model name, so "it fits my lift model" is not always enough. The model plate carries the serial number that pins your lift to a specific run, and that is the number that settles which version of this part belongs on your lift.

Can't find the plate? Measure the old part — overall length, bolt-hole spacing, thread size on anything threaded — and photograph it from a couple of angles. Send that with your lift's brand and rough age and we will match it against the parts breakdowns we service from every week.

Why buy your Challenger lifting cable from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the ALS-7234-429 x2 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.