The Challenger 10362-35 safety latch is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. This is the genuine Challenger part — same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger safety latch from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: 10362-35
• Brand: Challenger
• Type: Genuine OEM safety latch

The locks are the lift's mechanical backup — the part that actually holds the vehicle up once it's raised. A spring-loaded pawl drops into a toothed ladder at each column, and the lift rests on steel, not on hydraulic pressure. Hydraulics raise the lift; the locks are what let you work under it. Every click you hear on the way up is a pawl catching a tooth, ready to catch the whole load if pressure is ever lost.

Rust is what usually kills a lock before wear does. The pivot seizes, the return spring corrodes and weakens, and the pawl stops dropping crisply into the ladder. On a lift that lives in a damp shop or an unheated garage, the locks are often the first safety part to go — not from cycles, but from a stiff, gummed-up mechanism that no longer moves the way it has to.

Related parts for this lift

The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit.

• Challenger 10362-36 Ramp Latch Plate Xp9
• Challenger 10362-36B Ramp Latch Plate Xp9
• Challenger 10362-37 Ramp Latch Tongue Xp9
• Challenger 10362-37B Ramp Latch Tongue Xp9
• Challenger 10362-38 Ramp Latch Release Handle Xp9
• Challenger 10362-39 Ramp Latch Support Xp9

Replacing your safety latch

Replacing a lock ladder means getting the old one off its mounts, fitting the new one so the teeth line up with the pawl's travel, and securing it with no play. Then cycle the lift and watch the pawl catch a full tooth at every height. Because this is the lift's last line of defense, the full procedure is worth following start to finish. Full step-by-step: how to replace a lift lock ladder.

Find the right part for your lift

Not certain this is the exact part your lift needs? Start with your lift's model and serial off the data plate, then open our Challenger parts lookup to see the visual parts breakdown for your model — the exploded drawing with every part numbered and priced. If your plate is missing or unreadable, our guide to finding your model number walks through where to find it, or send us a photo and we will identify the lift for you.

Signs the locking system needs attention

Work each pawl by hand with the lift safely down or supported. It should pivot freely and snap back under spring pressure with no hesitation. A pawl that moves sluggishly, hangs up, or has to be helped back is gummed with grease and grit or has a weak spring — clean and free it, or replace it. A sticky pawl is one that won't be there when a lift loses pressure.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

Lock hardware works as a set, so when one part is worn the others usually are too — latches, pawls, springs, and the release cable all age together. Doing the full lock rebuild on both columns at once keeps engagement even and saves a second teardown. We will assemble the complete lock kit for your model.

Safety notes

The locking system is the last line of defense on a lift, so a worn latch or sticky pawl is a safety defect, not a nuisance. Both columns must engage and release together; if one clicks late or drags, the lift comes out of service until it is corrected. Never defeat or wire back a lock to keep a lift running.

Before you order

Have your model and serial ready, and note whether you need parts for one column or both — even lock wear is best corrected as a set. If the release cable is stretched or frayed, order it alongside the latch and pawl. Not sure which version your lift uses? Send a photo of the old parts.

Confirm this is the right part before you order

Lift manufacturers revise parts mid-production without changing the model name, so the same lift bought two years apart can take two different revisions of the same component. Before you order, find the model plate on the lift — on most 2-post lifts it rides on one of the columns at eye level, on 4-post lifts it is usually on a column or the power-unit side runway — and note the full model number and serial. The serial dates the lift to a production run, and that is what decides which revision fits.

If the plate is painted over or missing, take a photo of the part you are replacing next to a tape measure and send it to us. Between the dimensions, the mounting pattern, and what lift it came off of, we can almost always identify the exact part before you spend money on the wrong one.

Why buy your Challenger safety latch from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the 10362-35 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.