The Challenger 2-1432 lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. This is the genuine Challenger part — same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: 2-1432
• Brand: Challenger
• Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable
• Fits: 4018XFX
• Lift type: 4-post lift

Cable length and end fittings are what make a tension part fit, and they vary more than people expect. Older asymmetric lifts ran a long cable and a short cable; some columns use a threaded stud end, others a button or wedge. Order by the lift's actual routing, not a guess, because a cable that's an inch off or ends in the wrong fitting won't tension right no matter how you adjust it.

A cable is only as good as the sheave it rides. The two parts wear as a system: a grooved or wobbling sheave chews the cable, and a corded cable grinds a fresh sheave. That's why techs who pull a lift apart for one usually replace both, along with the small lock-release cable that trips the pawls. Swapping a cable onto worn sheaves just starts the failure clock over again.

What lifts this lifting cable fits

This lifting cable fits the lift models below. Click a model to open its visual parts breakdown — the exploded drawing with every part numbered, so you can confirm this is the right part for your exact lift before you order.

• 4018XFX — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift

Related parts for this lift

The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit.

• Challenger 2-0566 Weldment Deck Sheave Pin
• Challenger 2-1350 Pulley Holder 18K 4-Post
• Challenger 2-1354 Pulley Box 18K 4-Post
• Challenger 2-1357 Pulley Box Support Plate
• Challenger 2-1359 Pulley Holder Formed 18K
• Challenger 2-1360 Cable Assembly 407.5", 18K 4P

Replacing your lifting cable

Cable and sheave replacement usually happen together, since a worn sheave will chew a fresh cable and a bad cable scores a new sheave. Plan on inspecting and, if needed, replacing both while the lift is open, then equalizing the cables so the locks land together. It's methodical work with a clear right way to do it, laid out in full in the step-by-step guide. Full step-by-step: how to replace 4-post lift cables.

Find the right part for your lift

Not certain this is the exact part your lift needs? Start with your lift's model and serial off the data plate, then open our Challenger parts lookup to see the visual parts breakdown for your model — the exploded drawing with every part numbered and priced. If your plate is missing or unreadable, our guide to finding your model number walks through where to find it, or send us a photo and we will identify the lift for you.

Signs a cable or sheave is worn out

Pay attention to the cable ends and fittings. The threaded stud where the adjusting nut rides is a common failure point — look for stretched, necked-down threads and cracks at the swage where the fitting is crimped to the cable. If the swage shows any gap or the wires are pulling out of the fitting, the cable is finished regardless of how good the middle looks.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

Order the companions now, not later. A cable job is the right time to refresh sheaves, pins, and the lock-release cable, since the hard part — getting into the columns — is already done. Give us your lift's model and serial and we will put together the full wear kit so nothing is left half-finished.

Safety notes

A worn cable gives warning — a strand here, some cording there — and a shop that ignores those warnings is the one that has a bad day. Inspect at every service, replace before the interval if you see damage, and never trust a slack or kinked cable back into service. Set the lift on its locks before touching anything.

Before you order

Ordering tip: cables come in specific lengths and end styles per lift and height variant, so read the numbers off your data plate before you buy. If you are replacing a set, order the set — and if a sheave is grooved, add it now while the lift is open rather than making a second trip.

Check your lift's serial before ordering

The most common reason a lift part comes back is not a defect — it is a revision mismatch. Manufacturers change sub-parts between production runs while keeping the same lift model name, so "it fits my lift model" is not always enough. The model plate carries the serial number that pins your lift to a specific run, and that is the number that settles which version of this part belongs on your lift.

Can't find the plate? Measure the old part — overall length, bolt-hole spacing, thread size on anything threaded — and photograph it from a couple of angles. Send that with your lift's brand and rough age and we will match it against the parts breakdowns we service from every week.

Why buy your Challenger lifting cable from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the 2-1432 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.