The Challenger EV inground 2-post lift hides in the floor for a clean, open shop. Electric/hydraulic power, 8.5″ chrome pistons and wide drive-through 3-stage arms with double telescoping screw pads. Pick 10,000 or 12,000 lb and add bench-mounted controls, Quick-Cycle speed, or the XP9 express-service pad — the price updates as you choose.
Key features
- Inground design — lift hides in the floor for a clean, open bay
- Electric/hydraulic power unit; 8.5″ chrome pistons
- Wide drive-through 3-stage arms with double telescoping screw pads
- ALI certified
- Bench-mounted controls and Quick-Cycle (faster raise/lower) options
Installation (sold complete)
This listing is the complete lift. Inground completion kits, superstructures and upper-component kits are factory service components — we don’t sell partial kits. Setting an inground lift means an excavation and a steel-reinforced 3,500 PSI concrete pour with a chase for air/hydraulic lines; if you’re pouring a new bay, call 800-674-9302 and we’ll line up the work. Freight included.
Challenger EV Inground 2-Post Lift (10K–12K)
We deliver, install, and certify your lift — turnkey. Enter your ZIP for an installed price (local installs cost less; we charge more the farther we travel).
Quote, Spec Sheet, and Preparation Checklist
Print this for your install crew or your budget meeting.
Install Manual (PDF)Your Configuration
| Lift model | Challenger EV Inground 2-Post Lift |
| Configuration | Challenger EV Inground 2-Post Lift — 10,000 lb, Standard |
| Voltage | 208-230V single phase |
| Capacity | 10,000 lb |
| ALI Certified | Yes |
| Lift price | $12,493.96 |
| Estimated total | $12,493.96 |
| Freight | Included (prepaid by AMI) |
| Quote valid | 30 days |
Bay Requirements
| Ceiling height needed | 12’ |
| Bay width (minimum) | 12’ |
| Bay depth (recommended) | 24’ |
| Column spacing (inside) | In-floor (flush) |
| Overall height | Mounts in the floor — flush, clean shop appearance |
Concrete spec (from the Challenger installation manual)
- Steel-reinforced concrete, 3,500 PSI minimum, finished to the edge of the excavation (per the Challenger installation manual)
- Steel-reinforced, cured at least 28 days
- Level within 3/8” over the install area
- No anchor placement within 3-3/8” of any crack, edge, or expansion joint
- Pit depth and slab prep per the Challenger installation manual (attached); 2″ sch. 40 PVC chase for air/hydraulic lines
- ALI certified; 8.5-inch chrome pistons; Quick-Cycle option raises & lowers faster
Air supply: Required — clean, dry shop air with a filter/lubricator (per the Challenger installation manual)
Electrical: 208-230V single-phase, dedicated 20A breaker (see Electrical block below)
We’ll ship you our concrete test tool so you can verify your slab before you commit. $250 deposit is fully refundable when you return the tool within 30 days. You cover return shipping.
Arm Options — Comparison
The lift hides in the floor, so the choices are mainly capacity and the controls / speed / pad options:
| Capacity | 10,000–12,000 lb. Electric/hydraulic power unit, 8.5-inch chrome pistons, Wide drive-through 3-stage arms. |
| Bench controls (BMC) | Control console mounts on a wall/bench at a fixed operator station instead of on the lift. |
| Quick-Cycle (QC) | Faster power unit — raises & lowers noticeably quicker for high-volume shops. |
| Express pad (XP9) | Flip-up drive-on pad for fast tire/brake/oil work, then flip up to open arm access. (EV only.) |
| Install (sold complete) | This listing is the complete lift. Completion kits and superstructures are factory components, not sold separately — call us to stage a new-bay pour. |
Install Coordination & Rough Ballpark
Typical installer cost for this lift: $1,100 – $1,600
What that ballpark covers: standard install on a clean slab with electrical already run to the bay.
What it does NOT cover:
- Removing your existing lift
- Moving equipment that’s currently attached to the lift you’re replacing
- Electrical work (separate licensed electrician — see Electrical block)
- Concrete repairs or new pad pour
- Location-driven variation (rural deliveries, urban access, multi-floor, etc.)
Two paths:
(a) Find your own installer. We can refer one in your area — call us if you need a recommendation. You’ll handle scheduling and payment direct with the installer.
(b) Let us coordinate the install.
We schedule the installer, handle warranty registration after install, and do a post-install inspection. The $499 deposit is applied to your final install bill. If we can’t find an installer in your area, the deposit is fully refunded.
What to Watch Out For
Above the lift — check at the FRONT and REAR of where the vehicle will land, not just over the columns.
The vehicle’s hood and trunk extend past the lift columns when raised. Anything mounted to the ceiling in those zones can hit the vehicle before the lift reaches full rise.
Look for:
- Garage door opener motor + the door panels themselves when the door is fully open
- Exhaust ventilation hoods or snorkels
- Shop lights and fixtures
- Compressed air piping
- Existing hose reels (especially if you’re replacing an old lift)
- HVAC ducts, heaters, radiant heaters
- Roof rafters, beams, mezzanine edges
Below the lift — check the slab where the columns will anchor:
- Visible cracks within 3-3/8” of where anchors will go (deal-breaker per Challenger installation manual)
- Existing anchor bolt holes from an old lift (require relocation or epoxy filling)
- Old inground-lift concrete patches — the patch may not be rebarred to the surrounding slab; treat the patch as unreliable
- In-floor radiant heat — hydronic tubing under the slab can be punctured by anchor drilling. Get utility locates before drilling.
- Floor drains and how the floor slopes toward them — affects lift positioning
- Buried electrical conduit — get utility locates
- Old concrete (20+ years) can have hidden fractures — visible-OK doesn’t mean structural-OK. The concrete test tool catches this.
Rules of thumb:
- Never reuse existing anchors from a prior lift install.
- If installing near old anchor holes, pour anchor bolt epoxy into the new hole before driving in the wedge anchor. The epoxy bonds the anchor into compromised concrete that wedge action alone can’t grip.
Electrical Recommendations
This lift runs on 2 HP, 230V single-phase, 60 Hz (3-phase optional). Per the Challenger installation manual: never operate on line voltage below 208V.
Hire a licensed electrician for hookup. Most installers are not certified electricians, so plan on the electrical as a separate trade.
One breaker per lift. Running two lifts off one breaker will trip the breaker as soon as both run at the same time, and it makes future service harder. Budget for a dedicated circuit per bay.
Don’t hard-line conduit directly to the lift body. Electricians sometimes run mounting bolts into the lift housing to anchor conduit, which damages internals or makes the lift jump during operation.
Strongly recommended: loose “whip cord” with twist-lock plug, hanging from the ceiling.
Why:
- Gives you slack if the lift install location ends up a foot off from planned (it happens — concrete inspections, anchor positions, existing equipment can all push the final location around)
- Eliminates the need for a separate shop disconnect switch on the wall — techs just unplug the pump when servicing
- Easier to swap out the power unit later without bringing the electrician back