Rotary ARO22 22,000 lb 4-Post Alignment Lift

Your Configuration

Bay Requirements

Concrete spec (from Rotary IOM)

• 3,000 PSI minimum (28-day), normal-weight concrete (per Rotary IOM)
• Steel-reinforced, cured at least 28 days
• Level within 3/8” over the install area
• No anchor placement within 3-3/8” of any crack, edge, or expansion joint
• Anchors: 3/4” × 5-1/2”, 7 per column (14 total), per Rotary IOM
• If slab does not meet requirements: pour 6’ × 6’ × 8” concrete pad per column (per Rotary IOM)

Air supply: Required — 90-100 PSI shop air for the latch release (per Rotary IOM)

Electrical: 208-230V single-phase, dedicated 20A breaker (see Electrical block below)

Arm Options — Comparison

The Rotary ARO22 22,000 lb 4-Post Alignment Lift is an ALI-certified four-post lift. Choose the options above — the price updates as you select.

Install Coordination & Rough Ballpark

Typical installer cost for this lift: $1,100 – $1,600

What that ballpark covers: standard install on a clean slab with electrical already run to the bay.

What it does NOT cover:

• Removing your existing lift
• Moving equipment that’s currently attached to the lift you’re replacing
• Electrical work (separate licensed electrician — see Electrical block)
• Concrete repairs or new pad pour
• Location-driven variation (rural deliveries, urban access, multi-floor, etc.)

Two paths:

(a) Find your own installer. We can refer one in your area — call us if you need a recommendation. You’ll handle scheduling and payment direct with the installer.

(b) Let us coordinate the install.

What to Watch Out For

Above the lift — check at the FRONT and REAR of where the vehicle will land, not just over the columns.

The vehicle’s hood and trunk extend past the lift columns when raised. Anything mounted to the ceiling in those zones can hit the vehicle before the lift reaches full rise.

Look for:

• Garage door opener motor + the door panels themselves when the door is fully open
• Exhaust ventilation hoods or snorkels
• Shop lights and fixtures
• Compressed air piping
• Existing hose reels (especially if you’re replacing an old lift)
• HVAC ducts, heaters, radiant heaters
• Roof rafters, beams, mezzanine edges

Below the lift — check the slab where the columns will anchor:

• Visible cracks within 3-3/8” of where anchors will go (deal-breaker per Rotary IOM)
• Existing anchor bolt holes from an old lift (require relocation or epoxy filling)
• Old inground-lift concrete patches — the patch may not be rebarred to the surrounding slab; treat the patch as unreliable
• In-floor radiant heat — hydronic tubing under the slab can be punctured by anchor drilling. Get utility locates before drilling.
• Floor drains and how the floor slopes toward them — affects lift positioning
• Buried electrical conduit — get utility locates
• Old concrete (20+ years) can have hidden fractures — visible-OK doesn’t mean structural-OK. The concrete test tool catches this.

Rules of thumb:

• Never reuse existing anchors from a prior lift install.
• If installing near old anchor holes, pour anchor bolt epoxy into the new hole before driving in the wedge anchor. The epoxy bonds the anchor into compromised concrete that wedge action alone can’t grip.

Electrical Recommendations

This lift runs on 208-230V single-phase, 20-amp dedicated circuit (2 HP motor). Per the Rotary IOM: never operate on line voltage below 208V.

Hire a licensed electrician for hookup. Most installers are not certified electricians, so plan on the electrical as a separate trade.

One breaker per lift. Running two lifts off one breaker will trip the breaker as soon as both run at the same time, and it makes future service harder. Budget for a dedicated circuit per bay.

Don’t hard-line conduit directly to the lift body. Electricians sometimes run mounting bolts into the lift housing to anchor conduit, which damages internals or makes the lift jump during operation.

Strongly recommended: loose “whip cord” with twist-lock plug, hanging from the ceiling.

Why:

• Gives you slack if the lift install location ends up a foot off from planned (it happens — concrete inspections, anchor positions, existing equipment can all push the final location around)
• Eliminates the need for a separate shop disconnect switch on the wall — techs just unplug the pump when servicing
• Easier to swap out the power unit later without bringing the electrician back