The Rotary ALS-7500-20 x2 is the direct-replacement lifting cable for the Rotary lift it came off of — the genuine part, same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Rotary lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: ALS-7500-20 x2
• Brand: Rotary
• Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable

Cable failure almost never happens all at once. A strand pops here, a groove wears oversize there, a sheave bushing walks out the side, and the cable starts cording where it turns. Left alone, the frayed section keeps losing strands until the day it lets go — usually with weight on the lift. That is the whole reason these tension parts get inspected and swapped on a schedule instead of run to failure.

Rust is the quiet killer of lift cable. A shop in a salt-belt climate, or a lift that sat in a damp corner for a few years, loses cable to corrosion long before it ever wears out mechanically. Surface rust you can live with; rust that has eaten into the strands or frozen a sheave bushing you cannot. Once the steel is pitting under the outer wires, the rated strength is already gone.

Related parts for this lift

The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit.

• Sheave Shaft - Rotary FJ7444-8
• Equalizer Cable - Rotary FJ7449
• Sheave, Steel - Rotary SVI Exclusive
• Sheave, Nylon - Rotary FJ7116-1
• Sheave Shaft - Rotary FJ7582-6
• Equalizer Cable - Rotary FJ7591

Replacing your lifting cable

Cable and sheave replacement usually happen together, since a worn sheave will chew a fresh cable and a bad cable scores a new sheave. Plan on inspecting and, if needed, replacing both while the lift is open, then equalizing the cables so the locks land together. It's methodical work with a clear right way to do it, laid out in full in the step-by-step guide. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables.

Find the right part for your lift

If you are not sure this part matches your setup, the fastest check is the visual breakdown: open our Rotary parts lookup, pick your model, and match your part against the drawing where every item is numbered. Can't read the model plate? our guide to finding your model number shows exactly where it lives on each lift type, and we are a phone call away if you would rather have us confirm it.

Signs a cable or sheave is worn out

Watch the lift work, not just the parts. If one lock clicks noticeably before the others on the way up, or the lift lands one corner first on the way down, a cable has stretched or a sheave is dragging. Then inspect the suspect cable end to end for broken strands and the sheaves for groove wear. A lift that won't equalize is telling you a tension part is going.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

Order the companions now, not later. A cable job is the right time to refresh sheaves, pins, and the lock-release cable, since the hard part — getting into the columns — is already done. Give us your lift's model and serial and we will put together the full wear kit so nothing is left half-finished.

Safety notes

A worn cable gives warning — a strand here, some cording there — and a shop that ignores those warnings is the one that has a bad day. Inspect at every service, replace before the interval if you see damage, and never trust a slack or kinked cable back into service. Set the lift on its locks before touching anything.

Before you order

Ordering tip: cables come in specific lengths and end styles per lift and height variant, so read the numbers off your data plate before you buy. If you are replacing a set, order the set — and if a sheave is grooved, add it now while the lift is open rather than making a second trip.

Check your lift's serial before ordering

The most common reason a lift part comes back is not a defect — it is a revision mismatch. Manufacturers change sub-parts between production runs while keeping the same lift model name, so "it fits my lift model" is not always enough. The model plate carries the serial number that pins your lift to a specific run, and that is the number that settles which version of this part belongs on your lift.

Can't find the plate? Measure the old part — overall length, bolt-hole spacing, thread size on anything threaded — and photograph it from a couple of angles. Send that with your lift's brand and rough age and we will match it against the parts breakdowns we service from every week.

Why buy your Rotary lifting cable from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Rotary lifts every week — the ALS-7500-20 x2 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.