The Rotary ALS-7529-93 x2 is the direct-replacement lifting cable for the Rotary lift it came off of — the genuine part, same fit and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Rotary lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same.

Specifications

• Part number: ALS-7529-93 x2
• Brand: Rotary
• Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable

There is no cheaper insurance on a lift than fresh cable and sound sheaves. A cable set costs a fraction of a day's labor; a dropped vehicle costs the car, the downtime, and possibly somebody standing next to it. These parts hold real weight in the air. The moment a cable shows broken strands or a sheave won't turn true, the lift comes out of service until it's fixed — no exceptions worth making.

Lift cables don't have a fixed lifespan; they have an hours-and-conditions lifespan. A busy shop that cycles a two-post twenty times a day wears cable and sheaves far faster than a home garage that lifts once a week. Grit, road salt dragged in on frames, and a rough sheave groove all speed it up. Most sets that see daily commercial use start showing broken strands somewhere in the five-to-ten year window.

Related parts for this lift

The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit.

• Equalizer Cable (EH-1) - Rotary N378
• Equalizer Cable (EH-2) - Rotary N373
• Equalizer Cable - Rotary N372
• Equalizer Cable (EH-1) - Rotary N379
• Equalizer Cable (EH-2) - Rotary N375
• Equalizer Cable (EH-4) - Rotary N376

Replacing your lifting cable

Equalizer-cable work is as much adjustment as it is replacement — the cables only do their job when they're tensioned so both carriages rise and land together. Confirm the new cable length against the old, route it without twists, and dial in the adjusting nuts until the locks click in unison. Getting that equalization right is the whole point, and the complete walkthrough covers how to chase it down. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables.

Find the right part for your lift

Landed here but not 100% sure it is your part? Grab the model and serial from the data plate and open our Rotary parts lookup for the visual breakdown — the manufacturer-style drawing with every item numbered so you can match yours exactly. Plate missing? our guide to finding your model number helps, and we identify lifts from photos every week if you would rather ask.

Signs a cable or sheave is worn out

On sheaves specifically, spin each one and feel for roughness or wobble on the pin. Sight down the groove for a step or a widened, polished channel where the cable has cut in. Check for cracks radiating from the bore and for a bushing that's walking out. A sheave that has grooved oversize will cord a brand-new cable within a season, so replace it while you're in there.

Parts commonly replaced at the same time

Smart move while the columns are open: replace the matched cables and inspect every sheave, swapping any that are grooved or chipped. Cables and sheaves are a system, and doing them together keeps the lift equalized and running true. We will build the complete set for your model so you finish the job in one pass.

Safety notes

Do not gamble on a tension part. If a cable shows broken strands, cording, or heavy rust, or a sheave has an oversized or chipped groove, the lift comes out of service until it is fixed. Replace in pairs, tension evenly, and cycle the lift several times with no vehicle on it to confirm the set is riding true.

Before you order

Before you order, measure the old cable end to end and count how many you need — most lifts use a matched set, and replacing one without the others just leaves you doing the job again. Have your lift's model and serial handy so we can confirm length and end fittings for your exact production run.

Confirm this is the right part before you order

Lift manufacturers revise parts mid-production without changing the model name, so the same lift bought two years apart can take two different revisions of the same component. Before you order, find the model plate on the lift — on most 2-post lifts it rides on one of the columns at eye level, on 4-post lifts it is usually on a column or the power-unit side runway — and note the full model number and serial. The serial dates the lift to a production run, and that is what decides which revision fits.

If the plate is painted over or missing, take a photo of the part you are replacing next to a tape measure and send it to us. Between the dimensions, the mounting pattern, and what lift it came off of, we can almost always identify the exact part before you spend money on the wrong one.

Why buy your Rotary lifting cable from Auto Lift Services

We install, inspect, and repair Rotary lifts every week — the ALS-7529-93 x2 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.